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Hiking Boots and Chanel No. 5: Women Trekking Kokoda
Helen Moye

   
 
  A handmade bracelet is still hanging from my left wrist. It is faded, matted, grey, and flimsy. The six small beads, in pairs, remain uncertainly attached. By contrast, the tones of the beads — blue, green, or violet, with stripes of red and yellow, orange and blue — seem heightened against the dull string. I often touch them, twisting the string around my arm like a primitive rosary. I can't take it off. The world might end if I do. I fear what might happen when it finally rots away, or breaks.
  1  
  Trekking through a jungle is neither the time nor place for vanity or affectation. There had been numerous warnings about security in Port Moresby, as well as on the Kokoda Track itself. So, when I returned home, I took out the diamond and gold jewellery I normally wear, but had left behind during my trip. The custom-made heavy gold bangle on my arm just didn't work any more. It looked gaudy and pointless against the more humble incumbent. I replaced it in the second drawer, where an opportunistic burglar is bound to find it sooner or later. Four weeks on, I continue to brandish my string trekking bracelet like a talisman, in the face of all the real and imagined perils of urban life and work. I wear my corporate suits, my 12 denier ultra-sheer pantihose, my other items of expensive jewellery, and my trekking bracelet.
  2  
  Psychologists have words for this inability to let go, to disengage from a group or an experience. In the progressive stages of group development, this has been called "adjourning". It is represented as a time of apprehension, or minor crisis. I know what they mean. The other girls have experienced the same thing, in varying degrees.
  3  
  Within a day of our flying back into Brisbane, there was a stream of emails and phone calls between us — making contact, expressing disbelief that we had actually been there and now were back, thanking each other for companionship and support, and almost universally acknowledging the onset of "big time post-Kokoda blues". By mid-week, the reunion we had planned for two months' time had been moved forward to the coming Saturday night. By then, a number of us had already been in almost continuous de-brief mode (admitting to get-togethers in homes, cafés and bars all over the city) and the five litres or so of water which we had consumed daily on the trek the previous week, had been replaced by an equally committed approach to good champagne and strong coffee.
  4  
  We were a mixed bag, this group of fourteen women: city-dwellers from Brisbane and Cairns, who had all decided, for their own reasons, to walk the Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea in September, 2003; the first all-female trekking party to take up the significant challenge of completing what is acknowledged to be one of the hardest walks in the world. There were former representative level athletes. And there I was, the one who (prior to our group training) hadn't done any serious exercise for some four years. There were experienced campers and bushwalkers, and others who had never slept in a tent before, let alone used anything but a clean, flushing toilet. In the city we were school principal, plastic surgeon, recruitment consultant, events manager, lawyer, fashion retailer, full-time mothers, medical practice manager, property developer, school bursar, sporting consultant and coach, GP, accountant. On the Track, we weren't identifiably any of those things.
  5  
Volume Four 
Issue Two: November 2003
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